In our ongoing commitment to providing insight into the evolving landscape of labor rights within the textile and garment industry, we offer updates on the latest developments and progress, with a particular focus on developments in Bangladesh. Among other intriguing topics, this edition focuses a larger part of its attention on the recent catastrophic floods and political changes in Bangladesh.
We hope you enjoy reading!
Your project team
Dindigul Agreement to Eliminate Gender-based Violence and Harassment - Year 2 Progress Report (pdf)
The second-year progress report of the Dindigul Agreement outlines the achievements and challenges in combating gender-based violence and harassment in Tamil Nadu's textile industry. The report highlights significant strides in improving workplace safety and includes recommendations for strengthening enforcement mechanisms
A new scholarly article critically examines the EU's CSDDD, analyzing whether it will lead to significant improvements in workers' rights within global supply chains. The paper raises questions about the enforceability of the directive and its potential impact on companies operating in high-risk countries.
Study: Bangladesh Misses Out on $5bn Annually Due to Policy Gaps in Textile Recycling (pdf)
A recent study published by GIZ and H&M reveals that Bangladesh is losing an estimated $5 billion annually due to a lack of policy support for recycling post-industrial textile waste, also called Jhut. The report urges the government to implement regulatory frameworks to enable the effective recycling of textiles, potentially transforming Bangladesh into a global leader in sustainable production.
Fashion’s Plastic Paralysis: How Brands Resist Change and Fuel Microplastic Pollution
The Changing Markets Foundation latest report highlights how global fashion brands are continuing to increase their use of synthetic fibers, contributing to microplastic pollution. Notably, 81% of SHEIN’s product line is synthetic, and Inditex has seen a 20% rise in synthetic use. Many brands are focusing on superficial solutions, rather than implementing meaningful changes to reduce their reliance on plastics. This report provides a detailed analysis of the industry's response to microplastic pollution and calls for more transparent and responsible practices.
A new report by China Labour Bulletin (CLB) examines labor rights violations in Chinese supply chains, focusing on German companies under Germany’s pioneering Supply Chain Due Diligence Act. However, the development of the German Supply Act is on hold without further notice and at least until the EU CSDDD is transformed into national law (see News Update July 2024 Issue, “German Government's Growth Package Weakens Supply Chain Law”). While the report does not cover the textile industry specifically, it includes relevant data through the CLB’s strike map.
PFAS in Textiles in Europe’s Circular Economy
A briefing by the European Environment Agency provides information and summarizes the negative environmental and human health impacts of the synthetic chemicals classed as per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). Further technical details are provided by the assessment on PFAS in textiles in Europe’s circular economy (pdf). Textile Insight’s News Update has previously reported on PFAS and their spread within Europe and around garment factories in Bangladesh.
Latest Cases in the Textile Incident's Database:
The latest publications on our Textile Incidents website cover two different cases of unpaid wages and social security deficits, both in Bangladesh. Our website regularly publishes the latest incidents in the textile and garment sector to provide an argumentation basis for the need to enhance due diligence obligations. We recommend checking the website frequently for the latest updates.
IndustriALL, IF Metall, and H&M Group Update Global Framework Agreement
IndustriALL Global Union, IF Metall, and H&M Group have renewed their global framework agreement, aimed at enhancing labor rights and working conditions within H&M’s global supply chains. The updated agreement addresses critical issues such as wages, working hours, and workplace safety.
US Department of Labor Adds New Goods to Forced Labor List (pdf)
The U.S. Department of Labor (DOL) has expanded its list of goods made with forced and child labor, adding cotton textile products from China and Vietnam produced with Chinese cotton, amongst others. The DOL’s report underscores the growing concern over exploitative labor practices and highlights the need for stronger enforcement measures to ensure ethical supply chains.
Climate Catastrophe in Bangladesh: Impact of Recent Floods on Textile Workers and Industry
The recent catastrophic floods in Bangladesh have not only caused widespread disruption to the country’s readymade garment (RMG) supply chain but have also created a massive humanitarian crisis. The floods have displaced millions, with entire communities losing their homes and livelihoods. The disaster has severely impacted workers in the textile sector many of whom live in the hardest-hit areas and now face uncertainty about their futures. This natural disaster, worsened by the effects of climate change, has left both the country’s economy and its people in a precarious situation, also taking into consideration the recent political unrest. Just Style questions if international brands are quietly moving away from Bangladesh amid these disruptions, while Fashion United’s survey of brands producing in Bangladesh found relatively gentle reactions to delivery delays (Article in German). Meanwhile, a recent interview (in German) in Junge Welt highlights how the textile industry contributes to political instability and climate change.
RMG Worker Protests Continue Amid Political Power Struggle
Following the recent government change, the leadership of key industry bodies such as the BGMEA and BKMEA has undergone significant restructuring. The new BGMEA president Rafiqul Islam takes charge amid ongoing worker protests that have shut down over 100 factories. These protests, driven by a mix of political power struggles between the Awami League and BNP, and worker demands, including unclear and varying requests related to gender equality in hiring, have severely impacted production in the readymade garment (RMG) sector. The unrest has triggered joint operations by the army and police to safeguard factories and ensure stability. Despite efforts to keep operations running, factory owners fear missed shipments and reduced international orders due to the instability.
In light of recent developments, the Fair Labor Association has joined amfori, the Ethical Trading Initiative, Fair Wear Foundation, Mondiaal FNV and others to urge companies operating in and sourcing from Bangladesh to conduct business responsibly. At a press conference on 15 September, the National Garment Workers Federation (NGWF) called on the interim government to provide justice for the deaths, including compensation and rehabilitation for the victims, and to stop the illegal blacklisting of workers who have been involved in the protests (pdf). Similar demands were issued by the Awaj Foundation and the Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation (SGSF), among them a call to facilitate independent trade union registration and to enforce international standards such as the ILO Core Conventions and the CSDDD.
For further information, check out:
Blacklisting Practices in Bangladesh’s Garment Industry
In Bangladesh’s garment sector, blacklisting practices are being used to retaliate against workers involved in protests. A recent article from Dhaka Tribune reveals how employers are increasingly excluding workers who participate in strikes or demand better conditions, making it difficult for them to find new jobs. This practice undermines workers' rights and exacerbates their economic vulnerability, highlighting a growing issue of retaliatory actions against those advocating for labor rights.
German Minister Svenja Schulze's Visit to Strengthen Labor Protections
German Development Minister Svenja Schulze visited textile factories in Pakistan, focusing on the enforcement of Germany’s Supply Chain Act. The minister has agreed to set up a so-called helpdesk for local textile companies in the Pakistani capital Islamabad.
25th Sept 2024, Webinar:
Heat Stress and Workers: The Union Difference
Join the upcoming webinar Heat Stress and Workers: The Union Difference on Wednesday, 25 September 2024 at 3pm CET to explore how unionized workers are better protected against the effects of extreme heat. This event will present findings on the critical role unions play in safeguarding worker health during rising temperatures. It will take place in English with simultaneous Arabic, Spanish and Khmer interpretation and is hosted by the Solidarity Center.
8th Oct 2024, Online Talk:
Bangladesh Uprising: What Next for the Workers?
What can we do to show solidarity with the movements for justice in Bangladesh? What next for the new government? And how can we amplify workers’ demands? Join this online event at 7pm CET to hear from labor organisers and community activists on the ground about their struggle and their hope for the future.
We invite you to contribute events and networking opportunities for future editions by contacting us at Diese E-Mail-Adresse ist vor Spambots geschützt! Zur Anzeige muss JavaScript eingeschaltet sein!. Thank you for your participation in enriching the Textile Insight News Update!
Our News Update is a monthly publication that serves as a chronicle of news, insights, and analysis, striving to amplify the voices of workers and advocating for meaningful change within the textile industry. This is an open invitation to all interested parties who wish to support an ambitious, sustainable textile industry and become part of this new network. If you have suggestions for specific topics or wish to submit news or information under the "Network" category, please feel free to write to Diese E-Mail-Adresse ist vor Spambots geschützt! Zur Anzeige muss JavaScript eingeschaltet sein!.
Textile Insight is a part of the Multi-Actor Partnership for Improved Due Diligence Implementation in the Textile Sector, a collaboration between Bangladeshi partners ESDO and BILS along with German civil society organizations HEJSupport, INKOTA-netzwerk e.V., SÜDWIND e.V., and FEMNET e.V. Further project partners include WageIndicator, MFNV and BLF.
Our project focuses on community- and worker-based monitoring to address labor rights violations and environmental risks from a rights holders' perspective. The aim is to improve working and living conditions and enhance the due diligence of purchasing brands.