In our ongoing commitment to providing insight into the evolving landscape of labor rights within the textile and garment industry, we offer updates on the latest developments and progress, with a particular focus on developments in Bangladesh. This edition delves into the implications of the current political unrest in Bangladesh for the readymade garment sector, as well as several reports that reveal how structural inequalities hinder female workers from accessing and benefiting from grievance mechanisms and worker protection laws.
We hope you enjoy reading!
Your project team
Automation in the RMG Sector: Impact on Employment through a Gender Lens
For the fourth issue of Economic Intelligence Bangladesh, The Business Standard in collaboration with DataSense conducted a survey of the leaders of the readymade garments (RMG) sector to assess Bangladeshi enterprises’ readiness for toughened global competition after the LDC graduation expected in November 2026. The resulting report highlights how automation threatens jobs primarily held by women, raising concerns about gender inequality in employment. The findings underscore the need for upskilling programs and gender-sensitive policies to ensure women are not left behind in the industry’s technological transition.
Employment and working conditions in South Asia’s leather industry
INKOTA’s research on labor conditions in South Asia’s leather industry includes three studies focusing on Bangladesh (in German), India, and Pakistan, along with a comprehensive factsheet covering these countries. The reports highlight severe labor rights violations, including poverty wages, hazardous working environments, and a lack of social protections. Workers in India, many of them women, report exposure to harmful chemicals without proper safety measures and face significant barriers to organizing for better conditions (pdf). Accompanying this research is a video that visually captures the challenges faced by workers in the leather industry, amplifying their voices and experiences (in German). The findings underscore the urgent need for stronger labor protections and corporate accountability within global leather supply chains.
Between 2022-2024, Cividep India undertook a two-year long study to understand the impact of the RMG industry on women’s work, lives, and households. The research report particularly focuses on how caste, class, and gender intersect to shape the vulnerabilities of the female workforce, drawing a line from the home to the workplace and shedding light on structural inequalities.
Heat Stress in the Cambodian Workplace
The Solidarity Center’s Oppressive Heat project examines the impact of heat stress on workers in Cambodia, with a focus on garment factories. The report highlights how rising temperatures, poor ventilation, and long hours put workers—particularly women—at risk of heat-related health issues, leading to reduced productivity and increased workplace accidents. The report also shows that unionized workers experience half as much heat stress as nonunionized workers and finds that collective bargaining is the most effective form of collective protection for workers against heat stress.
New Interdisciplinary Research Initiative DigiChain on how CSDDD will attract digital technologies
Most companies covered by national due diligence laws already draw on digital tools for value chain governance. The role of digital tools for due diligence requires critical academic and public scrutiny, and the debate should include perspectives from technology, law, public policy, and value chain management. A 2023 report by the Asser Institute already examined the potential of big data technologies in this process (pdf). Now, the BHRRC is launching a new interdisciplinary research initiative on the topic at the University of Amsterdam and the Asser Institute: DigiChain.
Launch of Labor Rights Index 2024
The Labor Rights Index (LRI), first launched in 2020, is a de jure index comparing labor legislation worldwide. In highlighting key trends in labor laws across the world, the Index sheds light on key questions - are governments in a race to the bottom, trying to attract investment at the cost of worker welfare? Do international standards have an impact on how countries operate? How can knowledge of better labor laws lead to change in practices? The country rankings aim to encourage governments and businesses to strengthen labor protections, with special emphasis on vulnerable workers.
NEWS
Luxury Brands under Scrutiny for Worker Rights and Product Quality
Primark and other cheaper brands have experienced social and environmental criticism in a way that luxury brands falling foul of the same crimes have not. New research by the Environmental Charity Hubbub, in partnership with the University of Leeds, exploring the relationship between garment durability and price conclusively debunks the myth that cheaper fashion items are more ‘disposable’ than luxury items and that price correlates with quality. Another case raises concerns about the accountability of luxury brands in upholding worker rights: According to the Clean Clothes Campaign, Dior, Gucci, and other luxury brands have been accused of failing to support women garment workers in their supply chains. The report highlights that these brands pulled orders from factories in countries such as Morocco and Indonesia without ensuring severance pay or financial support, leaving workers in precarious situations.
California's New Law Tackles Textile Waste with Free Recycling Program
California's Responsible Textile Recovery Act will soon require fashion brands to take back used clothing for free. Under the new law, companies selling over $1 million annually in the state will be required to create a new non-profit organization by 2026 that would set up hundreds of collection sites at thrift stores, begin mail-back programs and take other steps in all of California’s 58 counties to take back and recycle their products by 2030.
Can Germany’s Supply Chain Act Protect Workers? (in German)
FEMNET’s chairwoman Gisela Burckhardt explores in this article whether Germany's Supply Chain Due Diligence Act (LkSG) effectively improves labor conditions, especially for women in global supply chains. While the law requires companies to address human rights risks, it mainly focuses on direct suppliers, leaving many vulnerable workers in indirect suppliers unprotected. Critics argue that without stronger enforcement and broader coverage, the law's impact will remain limited, as many workers are hesitant to file complaints due to potential job loss and insufficient compensation.
PRODUCTION COUNTRIES
Bangladesh
Garment Workers Await Action on 18-Point Agreement After Unrest
The Ready-Made Garments (RMG) sector has been experiencing conflicts over the past months, particularly in the Ashulia area. A tripartite committee was formed to address workers' demands and initially agreed to an 18-point demands of the garment workers on September 24. Key points of the agreement included:
- Implementation of the existing minimum wage in all factories by October
- Settling all outstanding payments by October 10
- Increasement of attendance bonuses by Tk225
- Rise of night shift bonuses by Tk10
- Implementation of a Tk10 increase for tiffin after 8.00pm
- Extension of maternity leave from 112 to 120 days
- Obligatory daycare centers in all factories
At the same press conference, the government declared that all legal cases against workers will be settled and compensation will be provided to families of workers killed during last year’s wage unrest and the July revolution. However, as of 6 October, the 18-point demand was yet to be implemented. 20 labor associations called on the government to implement the tripartite agreement, and sought justice for the garment worker killed during recent protests.
Protests in Bangladesh’s Garment Sector Prompt Major Order Shifts
Recent protests and labor unrest in Bangladesh's garment sector have caused significant disruption. In Savar, Ashulia and Gazipur, at least 70 readymade garment factories stopped production in early October, while more than 2,000 workers were laid off in two weeks. In Ashulia, the Birds Group postponed workers' wage payments by three months just before the agreed deadline, sparking fresh protests on October 1. The disruptions are already having a major impact on garment production in the country, with insiders reporting that up to 30% of next season’s orders have already shifted to other countries. The Sourcing Journal contacted fashion brands to assess this trend, while the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC) asked brands critical questions about the impact of these protests on them. Their findings highlighted delivery delays, order penalties, and concerns about workers’ wages. On September 30, the BHRRC confirmed that several brands have indeed reduced orders following the July protest and on October 6, the president of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) confirmed that around 30 per cent of orders have shifted to other countries. As brands reevaluate their sourcing strategies, some are reportedly diverting orders to India, with a group of exporters based in Tiruppur, southern India, reportedly securing fresh orders totalling USD 54m as a result of the disruption.
China
Shein’s Gig Workers Speak Out on Precarious Conditions
Gig workers in China are posting day-in-the-life vlogs highlighting the allegedly precarious working conditions powering Shein's aggressive growth. WIRED analyzed more than 30 of the videos from four Chinese platforms and related publicly available information. Many of the gig workers are employed through “labor dispatch,” outsourcing arrangements that evade full-time employment protections. Workers are paid based on productivity, but wages can drop when order volumes decline, creating financial insecurity. As criticism mounts, Shein’s labor model has drawn increasing attention.
India
Made in India: How Existing Laws Meant to Help Garment Workers Fall Short for Women
An investigation by The Wire uncovers ongoing sexual harassment and wage theft affecting women workers in garment export factories. Although laws exist to protect workers, the report highlights that enforcement remains weak, with many women unable to access justice due to inadequate complaint mechanisms and fear of retaliation. The findings expose how existing legal frameworks fall short in safeguarding women from abuse, leaving them vulnerable within the supply chains of major global brands
Are Digital Grievance Systems in Garment Factories Failing Workers?
Sourcing Journal reports that digital grievance platforms in Indian garment factories are failing to provide meaningful support for workers, particularly women. Many struggle with limited digital access and literacy, while fear of retaliation prevents them from using these systems safely. In contrast, the offline grievance mechanism of the Dindigul Agreement, which relies on in-person reporting, has been more effective in addressing worker complaints and ensuring their rights are protected. This raises questions about the suitability of digital tools for such environments.
NETWORK & EVENTS
Aug 17th - Oct 27th 2024, Exhibition:
Impossible is Nothing: Art Takes on Fashion's Dark Side
The "Impossible is Nothing" exhibition at ACC Galerie Weimar critiques fast fashion's exploitation through subversive art. Projects like "Realitywear" by The Yes Men, featuring pieces made from Adidas scraps, challenge viewers to reflect on labor abuses in the garment industry. The exhibition, in collaboration with the Clean Clothes Campaign, uses satire and immersive installations to raise awareness.
Every Friday, 1.00-1.45pm CET, regular gatherings:
(Un)Sustainability Fashion Community Gatherings (regular basis)
Join Lavinia Muth aka Beyond Sustaina-Bullshit in these non-curated sessions as the group delves into topics of radicality, systems thinking, social justice, environmental stewardship, and post-growth economics in fashion.
Via Zoom, Meeting ID: 822 3050 5983, Passcode: 292145, Join here
We invite you to contribute events and networking opportunities for future editions by contacting us at Diese E-Mail-Adresse ist vor Spambots geschützt! Zur Anzeige muss JavaScript eingeschaltet sein!. Thank you for your participation in enriching the Textile Insight News Update!
About Textile Insight
Our News Update is a monthly publication that serves as a chronicle of news, insights, and analysis, striving to amplify the voices of workers and advocating for meaningful change within the textile industry. This is an open invitation to all interested parties who wish to support an ambitious, sustainable textile industry and become part of this new network. If you have suggestions for specific topics or wish to submit news or information under the "Network" category, please feel free to write to Diese E-Mail-Adresse ist vor Spambots geschützt! Zur Anzeige muss JavaScript eingeschaltet sein!.
Textile Insight is a part of the Multi-Actor Partnership for Improved Due Diligence Implementation in the Textile Sector, a collaboration between Bangladeshi partners ESDO and BILS along with German civil society organizations HEJSupport, INKOTA-netzwerk e.V., SÜDWIND e.V., and FEMNET e.V. Further project partners include WageIndicator, MFNV and BLF.
Our project focuses on community- and worker-based monitoring to address labor rights violations and environmental risks from a rights holders' perspective. The aim is to improve working and living conditions and enhance the due diligence of purchasing brands.
